Luxembourg is fairy-tale stuff…complete with the happy ending. Listen to the story of this land’s tumultuous history and be drawn into a tale of counts and dynasties, wars and victories, fortresses and promontories. Only the dragon is missing.
The Grand Duchy stems from the loins of Count Sigefroi of the Ardennes, who raised a castle here in 963 AD. By the Middle Ages, Sigefroi’s castle was a highly sought-after fortified city – the Burgundians, Spanish, French, Austrians and Prussians all waged bloody battles to secure it. Besieged, devastated and rebuilt 20 times in 400 years, it became the strongest fortress in Europe after Gibraltar. But it was Luxembourg who had its final say. After the Treaty of London recognised the country’s autonomy in 1867, the Grand Duchy declared itself neutral in international affairs and torched its much-contested fort.
German invasion in 1914 squashed Luxembourg’s neutrality. It was occupied again in WWII and fared badly throughout those years – local men were conscripted into the Nazi army and in 1944 came the Battle of the Ardennes.
After the war Luxembourg dumped its neutral status and joined NATO. It became a founding member of the EU, and today plays an active role on its governing bodies. Iron ore discoveries around 1850 started the country’s economic success, but when steel slumped a century or so later, Luxembourg wooed foreigners with favourable banking and taxation laws. Today many nations aspire to an economy like this. With per capita GDP among the world’s highest, Luxembourg boasts low unemployment and a consistently high standard of living. The country is headed by Grand Duke Henri, who came to the throne in 2000. Prime Minister Jean-Claude Juncker (Christian Social People’s Party) has dominated the political scene since 1995.
Luxembourgers are a proud people whose national motto, Mir wëlle bleiwe wat mir sin (‘We want to remain what we are’), sums up their independent spirit. The population of 469,000 is predominantly rural based – the only centres of any size are the capital, Luxembourg City, followed by Esch-sur-Alzette.
The Duchy’s population is 87% Roman Catholic and comprises 30% foreigners – the EU’s highest ratio. Luxembourgers are used to their country being held up as a successful multicultural model, though they’re also quick to point out that combining a couple of European cultures, in this case Italian and Portuguese, is radically easier than melding different ethnic backgrounds.
Most Luxembourgers speak French, German and their national tongue, Lëtzebuergesch, and many are fluent in English. Lëtzebuergesch was only proclaimed the national tongue in 1984, though it’s long been an everyday language. The poem Rénert (Fox) by Michel Rodange (1827–76) was the first literary work published in Lëtzebuergesch. It takes a teasing look at 19th-century society and has been translated into English. Also worth tracking down is the film Renart the Fox by Thierry Schiel, a nomination contender for 2006’s foreign-language Academy Awards.
Though too small for its full name to fit on most European maps, pint-sized Luxembourg (2586 sq km, or 82km long and 57km wide) is wonderfully diverse. Lush highlands and valleys in the northern Ardennes merge effortlessly with the Müllerthal’s ancient forested landscape to the east. In the southeast snakes the Moselle valley with its steep vineyards and riverside hamlets. In between all this are rolling farmlands dotted with pristine, pastel-toned houses and medieval hilltop castles. Of most concern environmentally are air and water pollution in urban areas.
Luxembourg’s cuisine is French and German based. The national dish is judd mat gaardebounen – slabs of smoked pork served in a thick cream-based sauce with chunks of potato and broad beans. Other specialities include ferkelsrippchen (grilled spareribs), liewekniddelen mat sauerkraut (liver meatballs with sauerkraut) and kachkeis (a cooked cheese). Beers to sink include Bofferding, Diekirch, Mousel and Simon Pils, after which comes a host of local fruity white and sparkling wines. From 2008 you can enjoy all this in an untainted environment, thanks to recent legislation banning smoking in restaurants and, during dining hours, in cafés.
European Capital of Culture in 2007, Luxembourg is sure to shine.
Last updated: Oct 27, 2008
